Hey all,
Greetings from Chiang Mai! After a year of stillness and work in Krabi, I’ve been taking a week off to travel solo, something that I like to do once in a while. It helps me recharging and relaxing at the same time. I mean, how cool is it not to have to make plans in advance or compromise on dinner or where to go next? I enjoy traveling with friends and family, but sometimes I need my time alone. Taking advantage of the quiet low season, I decided to fly North, stop two days in Chiang Mai and the rest of the week in Chiang Rai: I’ve visited the former on a stop over some years ago, but it’s going to be my first time in the latter, and I can’t wait to be there. However, this post is only about Chiang Mai, because there is a lot to say about this city alone, and Chiang Rai deserves its own post. Table of content:
The city of Chiang Mai, a digital nomad favourite that looks like a village
Chiang Mai, or Chiangmai, is the largest city in Northern Thailand and the capital of Chiang Mai province. It lies 700 km north of Bangkok in a mountainous region.
The name Chiang Mai means “New city” in Thai, however the city used to be the capital of the Lanna Kingdom before the reign merged with other kingdoms as part of Siam, nowadays Thailand, so its story is longer than what the name might suggest. Chiang Mai is crossed by the Ping River and because of its position it has become a religious, cultural and economic centre for Northern Thailand, as well as a strategic Northern hub for travels to and from the neighbouring countries of Myanmar, China and Laos. Chiang Mai is also one of the favourite cities of digital nomads; this reflects in the great number of co-working spaces, cafes, clubs, organic shops and vegetarian and vegan restaurants that can be found all around the city but especially in the Old Town and in the Nimmanhaemin area. It’s also a renowned and appreciated tourist centre, thanks to the many attractions that satisfy most travellers, from stunning National parks like the Doi Inthanon to jungle and river adventures, trekking opportunities, elephant sanctuaries. Not to mention the thousands of temples and ruins that fill the province and the presence of the hill tribes, minority groups of Tibetan and Mongolian descent like the Karen, Hmong and the Miao who possess awesome clothing, interesting religious beliefs and a remarkable way of living. We all can absorb some wisdom from the hill tribes, and in fact visiting a village of White Karen has been one of the highlights of my trip. Yet, despite offering a great deal of activities, Chiang Mai appears like a large village: it’s (mostly) very clean, it’s orderly, it’s quiet and traditional, and the high rise condos haven’t changed its appearance, yet. The Old City, particularly the 18th-century walled quarter, lies on the West bank of the Ping River; it contains ruins of many 13th- and 14th-century temples, while the modern East-bank area is a more open scenery. Two bridges cross the broad Ping River.
Flying to Chiang Mai
After Bangkok, Chiang Mai is probably the most well connected city in Thailand. There are weekly flights to most Thai cities (including Bangkok, Hat Yai, Hua Hin, Samui, Khon Kaen, Krabi, Pattaya, Phuket, Nan, Pai, Phitsanoluk) and several low cost airlines like Air Asia, Nok Air, Kan, Nok Air, Tiger Air fly to and from Chiang Mai airport, on top of major airlines like Thai, Singapore Airlines and Korean Air . Flights to Bangkok depart almost every hour, while International flights connect the city to bordering countries like Myanmar, Laos and Vietnam, but also to China, South Korea, India, Taiwan and Qatar. The direct flight from Krabi to Chiang Mai is operated by Air Asia and it costed me about 2000 THB, booking a week in advance. From Chiang Mai I plan to travel by bus to Chiang Rai, where I will be spending four days. On the way back, I’m going to fly from Chiang Rai to Bangkok, then Bangkok to Krabi with Thai Lion Air. For the three flights I paid 4500 THB, but the fare can double in high season (November to March) and during public holidays.
Where to sleep in Chiang Mai
The accommodation I’ve chosen is an original boutique hotel in the heart of the Old Town. It’s called Elliebum and I love it! The staff is not only welcoming but very professional and friendly, eager to share tips and info about the city and activities to do. The little garden at the entrance of the hotel is adorable, and you can sit there with friendly Gede and chat while sipping a glass of good wine at sunset, if you feel like enjoying some company. The rooms are on the small size but spotlessly clean and well furnished with anything you need, from a bathrobe to hairdryer and safety box. My Deluxe room is on the second floor, there’s no elevator but the staff can carry your luggage upstairs if needed. Breakfast is AWESOME. You get to choose among 8 or 9 options and they will prepare and serve it according to the time you prefer. So far I’ve tried Jok (a Thai porridge with pork meatballs, ginger and eggs) and a Lebanese dish of fried eggs in a bed of tomato sauce. You can book directly with the hotel or through Booking.com, always my first choice for reservations. If you like to book your activities in and around Chiang Mai through Get your Guide or Trip Guru, the Elliebum boutique hotel is well known to their guides and drivers, and the address automatically pops up when choosing your preferred pick up location. Super easy. Like myself, most travellers opt to sleep in the Old Town, which is the most charming part of the city, filled with temples, monuments, restaurants and shops. It’s enclosed by the old walls and very easy to explore by feet or by bike. Just outside of the old city, at the four corners, are some shopping malls like Central or Maya, useful if you need to buy trekking equipment or go grocery shopping for imported food. All around the city, in the countryside or on the hills, are some upscale resorts and boutique hotels that are the dream of Instagram influencers. You can wake up in the mist that engulf the hills, surrounded by the jungle, and open your window to a suspended hammock or infinite pool. Of course all come for an expensive price. To recap, the main areas you should consider for your stay in Chiang Mai are the following:
What to see in three days
1) Temples, temples and more temples
It’s raining heavily in Chiang Mai at the moment (not surprisingly, for mid October) so after landing I decided to spend the rest of the day walking lazily around the neighbourhood, dressed as a Smurf in my rain jacket, to check out bars and restaurants and visit a few temples. The Warorot Market, which was one of the local places I wanted to experience, is unfortunately closed due to the heavy rain and flooding. But be sure to check it out when visiting the city. Instead, on my first day in town I decided to take it slow, and get lost on purpose, walking without a precise itinerary. Isn’t it relaxing to get lost once in a while? Especially in a city that’s filled with temples, markets, design cafés, local specialties and interesting boutiques selling high quality cotton and silk clothes. I had planned to rent a bike or a scooter for going around, however due to the very heavy rain and flooding I reconsidered, and went by foot. The first temple I visited, just around the corner from my hotel, was the Wat Chedi Luang (entrance fee: 50 THB) where Chiang Mai’s City Pillar is hosted. Chedi Luang, also known as The Great Stupa temple, is one of Chiang Mai’s most important temples. Its most easily recognisable feature is the massive stupa (or Chedi = pagoda) dominating the courtyard. It was built over a century and once finished, in 1475, it had reached an impressive height of 85 meters, the tallest structure in Chiang Mai province. A earthquake destroyed much of the pagoda in the 16th century, however it was partially restored in the Nineties . The most sacred Buddha statue in the country, the Emerald Buddha, used to be housed inside the Wat Chedi Luang. Today, however, the statue is housed in the Wat Phra Kaew temple, in Bangkok. The Sao Inthakin, Chiang Mai City Pillar is also housed in a small shrine inside the Wat Chedi Luang complex. The city pillar is believed by locals to protect the city. Women are not allowed to enter the shrine to see it, though, and you will find an explanation why on the sign at the entrance. Surprise, surprise... The Wat Chedi Luang complex was partially flooded and everybody was walking in water at knee length, but I was enjoying my stroll and decided to keep going. The next temple I entered was the Wat Phra Singh or “The temple of the Lion Buddha” , dating back to the 14th century when Chiang Mai was the capital of the Lanna Kingdom. The temple hosts a great number of monks and it was lively even in the pouring rain. The most peculiar thing about this temple is the main golden stupa which is a circular structure mounted on a square base. Four elephant statues emerge from the 4 sides of the stupa. Even in the grey sky, the golden pagoda is as sparkling as the sun, so much as to be blinding! Golden reflections in the rain puddles and a backdrop of dark clouds made this temple look ethereal. Admission is free. Before going back to the hotel for a change of socks and shoes, I stepped on the grounds of a deserted temple, the Jedi Sriphuak Hong. I enjoyed some quiet five minutes right before sunset, then I walked back to Elliebum. I had dinner in a restaurant nearby, where I ordered a very welcomed hot soup (Khao Soy, rice noodles in a chicken broth, a specialty of North).
2) Doi Inthanon National Park
On my second day in Chiang Mai I booked a guided tour to explore Doi Inthanon National Park, which is located about 60 kilometres from Chiang Mai. Doi Inthanon is appreciated for its waterfalls, vegetation and the rain forest, and for housing Thailand’s highest peak, the 2,565 meter high Doi Inthanon. Different altitudes mean different flora and fauna inside the park: the lower parts host the same vegetation as the rest of Northern Thailand, while the top of the mountain is covered in mist and evergreen forest: green ferns, lianas, mosses and several plants that cannot be found elsewhere in Thailand can be found here. If Elves existed they would live close to Doi Inthanon Peak. My guided tour (which I booked via Get Your Guide) comprised 8 people in a well kept minivan, plus guide and driver. Once we reached the park, we first stopped to see Wachirathan Waterfall, the second biggest on the way to the summit of Doi Inthanon Mountain, and one of the most impressive. The multi-levelled waterfall drops around 80 meters, and you get sprayed just by stand-in ten meters away. So be careful with your electronics and use a waterproof bag. When the sun comes out, even for a second, a beautiful rainbow appears in the midst of the river. You can stay overnight at Doi Inthanon, camping or renting one of the National Park’s bungalow, but the latter are to be booked almost one year in advance because they are in high demand. So camping looks like the easier option. We then stopped at Sirithan Waterfall, another stunning waterfall which is named after the Queen Mother, Sirikit. (Than means Water in the old Pali language). Due to the seasonal heavy rain, we could see the waterfalls and the river at their most powerful. We then proceeded to the Doi Inthanon summit where we took a 45 minute walk in the forest. It was cold, though! Well, colder than expected, anyway. At 18 degrees, this is the coldest day I’ve experienced in the last 4 years, except for the 5 freezing days in Copenhagen in October 2021. But it was so worth it: the moss-and-fern covered forest is so beautiful I’m not sure I can describe it effectively, you must walk there by yourselves to see what I mean. At the top of the summit there are two twin pagodas, known as The Royal Twin Pagodas. For some of my travel companions, the two pagodas were the highlight of the day, but in my opinion the enchanted forest and the Karen village deserve the first place. The first and largest pagoda was built to honour the late King, Rama IX, on his 60th birthday, while the second, slightly smaller, pagoda is dedicated to his consort, Queen Sirikit. More than the pagodas I appreciated the stunning view on the valley below, which came unexpected: after a foggy and rainy morning, the sky opened and the sun shone briefly while we were walking in the Queen’s gardens that encircle the two pagodas, and there it was, Chiang Mai valley and some part of the city!
3) The Hill Tribes
Doi Inthanon is home to a number of hill tribe villages, some of which can be visited on a day or multi-day excursion. Inside the park we kept driving until we reached a Karen village of 800 inhabitants. The White Karen are one of the three groups that make up the Karen Tribe of Tibetan descent ( the other two are the Red Karen and the Longneck Karen). The White Karen are fierce protector of the forest, they live a symbiotic life with nature. They even bury their dead under the trees surrounding the village so that they can be one with nature. Black piglets, cows, puppies, roosters and ducklings roamed around us while we walked in the village. We took our time to smell the flowers, pick up fruit from the trees, visit a weaver’s shop, some rice fields and a coffee roasting shop. While tasting the very strong dark coffee of the Karen, we learned about the Doi Inthanon Royal Project which was started by the late King to educate the hill tribe people about modern agricultural techniques and how to improve their living standards. The Royal Project aims to offer an alternative for the destructive slash and burn tactics that were used by peasants and farmers in the past and it also aims to give a profitable alternative to the production of opium, once the main product coming from these hills. Nowadays, the Karen village we visited grows coffee beans, rice and several vegetables and fruits, including avocado and strawberries. It's extremely peaceful and traditional, yet lively and beautiful. We felt welcomed by the locals and when we left we didn't have the feeling of being in a tourist trap like the one set at the Longneck Village I've read about in several posts.
Did you know?
1) There’s a beach in Chiang Mai! In fact, you’ll likely spot some road signs pointing to Chiang Mai Beach along the road, even if the city is hundred of miles away from the ocean. Since a few years, there has been a Chiang Mai river beach, a place where, despite the muddy coloured Ping River not being inviting for swimming, you’ll find sun chairs, swings, hammocks, a coffee shop and a beach playground for kids to play in the sand. I haven’t had time to check it out in person, but it seems to be quite popular and only a 20 minute drive from the Old City. 2) At the Wat Chedi Luang foreigners can speak daily with the local monks, and it’s a mutual learning opportunity: monks can practice their English while foreigners can expand their knowledge about Buddhism and monastic life. 3) Starbucks might not be your ideal coffee nest, however I was thrilled to learn that in Chiang Mai they buy coffee beans coming from the White Karen villages of Doi Inthanon. They go local, they pay a fair price (according to the villagers) and that’s good to know. And that's all from Chiang Mai since tomorrow I'm going to travel to Chiang Rai, where I've never been before. Three days in Chiang Mai is the minimum stay one should plan since there is a lot to see and experience, not too mention all the restaurants and art galleries that would require a month alone. However, a quick stay is better than nothing, and I plan to visit the city again at another time of the year. If there is anything you would like to recommend me before my next trip, please do write it here!
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Have you heard about the Rot Fai Train Market? It used to be my favorite night market back when I was living in Bangkok and I think it might be the best night market in the whole city, which says a lot about its awesomeness, considering that Bangkok is a metropolis bustling with night markets and bazaars. As you may know, I know live in Krabi, Southern Thailand, but last month I was in Bangkok for a few days and, on a Friday night, I went back to Rot Fai to see how it looked after the two-year pandemic. My father was visiting from Europe while my boss Pluto happened to be in town too, and both of them had never been to Rot Fai, so they joined me in the expedition to the outskirts of Bangkok. You can watch my video of Rot Fai here. Rot Fai is an authentic open-air market selling an incredible variety of vintage memorabilia, from shoes and hippy clothes to antique forniture, old cars, spare parts and road signs. There are also shops selling modern fashion and more typical stuff like toys, pins, socks and underwear; there are cool restaurants, bars and snack stalls, tattoo parlours, barber shops and even a skate park. FRIDAY NIGHT AT ROT FAI We (as per my father, Pluto, his wife Alice and I) left from La Pala restaurant in Asoke (which you must try if you fancy great authentic Italian food at a reasonable price in an informal and central location) at around 7.30 pm on a Friday night, after an early dinner. Our decision to visit Rot Fai was last minute and we were all very tired after a full day of walking in Bangkok heat, so we didn’t feel to go by BTS and decided to risk being stuck in traffic by riding a taxi. It took us about 45 minutes to reach Rot Fai, but it could have been a much longer ride. We entered Rot Fai from the main entrance, flanking some Thai restaurants, a few bars, hairdressers and barber shops. A bunch of kids and teenagers were skating in a new skate park I didn’t notice on my previous visit. I was happy to see that the market was lively although not crowded. THE FIRST SECTION The first section of Rot Fai has shops selling modern clothes and bags, and popular Korean and Thai restaurants and cafes, some housed in containers, some in old train wagons and campers. Don’t be tricked into thinking that this is all the market is about, but keep going and explore the huge plot of land until you find more interesting sections. Food stalls selling popular Thai street specialties are abundant, as are the ones selling insects, if you want to try something unusual for a Western palate. One place I really like is an old style café selling juices, granitas, drinks and snacks in the first section: you will notice a bicycle with the Coca Cola logo and lots of old posters and advertising. Alice confirmed that this café looks exactly like the ones she used to buy her after school snacks when she was a little kid in the Seventies. We had had dinner already, so we skipped the food stalls and headed directly to the second and third section of the market, where the car sellers and antique furniture shops are. OLD STYLE AMERICA, BEATLES AND CARABAO What makes Rot Fai Srinakarin stand out among all the other markets in Bangkok is the hard-to-find items located in the Warehouse and Rod’ Antiques sections of the market, such as 1950s Cadillacs and Volkswagen minibuses, old record players and juke boxes, tin kids cars and scooters, one-off vintage leather jackets and boots, 1960s Adidas sneakers and action figures combined with a few old style American diners and a Carabao and Beatles café. (Carabao is a Thai rock band, the Beatles are… well, I bet you know who they are). This time I couldn’t find both the Carabao and Beatles venues, so it might be that they shut down during the pandemic, however most of all the other Road 66 style diners are still there and open. Gasoline pumps and rugged lamp posts and traffic lights give the place a ghostly atmosphere, like an abandoned mine city in the middle of a desert, somewhere in Arizona. An American bomber is set on a warehouse roof, its wings and cabin menacing above the stalls and shops. At the Warehouse vendors are incredibly friendly and the array of products is astonishing, so we spent a long time there taking videos and photos. You’ll be surrounded by old cameras, Coca Cola , Ducati & Marlboro merchandise, ET puppets, household furniture, electronic equipment and shoes that will make you feel like you have been sucked into Netflix’s “Strangers Things”, then walk to Rod’s Antiques zone and you’ll be catapulted into another era, head first in a James Dean’s movie. Some of the sellers are also collectors, always on the hunt for something original, so you never know what you’ll find next time. A MIXED CROWD What I couldn’t record on video, for copy right reasons, is the music coming from the shops: a good balance of Jazz from the Fifties, early rock’n’roll & old Thai folk songs. I couldn’t help but wanting to dance, there, among the piles of All Stars and Elvis’ records and life-size mannequins. And somebody was dancing. This is what I like most about Rot Fai: the easy attitude of everyone involved, from the vendors to the customers, a crowd of friendly and chilled people that you don’t see often in tourist traps and bars downtown. Families with young children living in the area come to take their evening walk and dinner at the market, teenagers zig zag among the warehouses on bikes and skates, older people sit drinking a Chang and discussing the old cars and us, the foreigners, blend in the scene without attracting much attention. Bargaining is expected at this market, yet the vintage items you’ll see displayed are guaranteed to be original, so don’t try too hard: if the price is high, it’s probably for a reason. Even if you’re not an expert on vintage goods nor a fan, I promise that Rot Fai Srinakarin has an authentic charm and a friendly environment that you’ll end up loving. It’s far from downtown and you might struggle to find a taxi willing to bring you back to Asoke or Silom late at night, but the market really makes for a fun night out of the city centre and it’s a fantastic place to buy souvenirs. GOOD TO KNOW BEFORE GOING TO ROT FAI MARKET
You have read that I live in Krabi, but you might wonder where exactly it is and why would someone live in such an unknown place (that is if you have never been to Thailand). Well, Krabi is a spectacular province in the South-west of Thailand, boarding the Andaman Sea. Although Krabi doesn’t make headlines as some of the most famous tourist destinations in the country, like Koh Samui, Phuket and Chiang Mai, thousands of visitors come to visit the area all year round, but especially in dry season, from November until April. Why so? Because Krabi has some of the best beaches and islands in Thailand and many other natural attractions like the karst mountains and peaks jutting out of the turquoise sea, or the mangrove forests, waterfalls and hot springs. The first time I travelled to Thailand in the early Nineties, I didn’t go to Krabi but, as most European tourists, I only visited Bangkok and Phuket, with a day trip to Phi Phi Islands. My family and I immediately fell in love with Phi Phi, and when the tour guide told us that the islands belonged to Krabi Province, we made up our mind to go exploring Krabi Province, the following time we would be in Thailand. And we did it. In all truth, Krabi should be on every Thai bucket list because its scenery is unique and the province full of surprises. After travelling to Krabi for several years, on solo travels or holidays with friends and family, two years ago I decided to move here for good. Since then, I explored the province regularly, visiting the most touristic attractions as well as the less known places. To help you planning your next trip, here are some of the best things to see and do in Krabi, Thailand. Ao Nang Ao Nang is the most popular tourist destination in Krabi Province. It’s a laid back village about 20 minute drive from Krabi Town, where you will find plenty of hotels and renting accommodation, restaurants, shops, and the most popular beach in Krabi, Ao Nang beach. The village is far from being fancy, instead it appeals to visitors that like an informal atmosphere and plenty of facilities, from Starbucks and McDonald’s venues to simple café and local restaurants where you can eat a Pad Thai or Mango and Sticky rice for less than a hundred bath. At night Ao Nang is lively with cabaret shows, live music and performances, and a few soi (little alleys) where locals and tourists play pool and darts or drink a beer with bar girls. Boogie Bar and Booze are among the most popular bars, while the Slumber Party bar and hostel is the favorite among young travellers and backpackers. Upscale Italian restaurants like Umberto or Azzurra will make pasta lovers happy, while Kodam Kitchen or Ton Ma Yom offer the best local Thai cuisine. Indian restaurants are everywhere, and Japanese and Chinese venues are doubling by the year, so there’s really something for everybody in this small beach town. During the day, roasting in the sun and visiting the nearby islands are the visitors’ favorite activities: a boat ride from Ao Nang Beach to Poda and Chicken Islands only takes 20 minutes, and the local long-tail boats are waiting for passengers right in front of the beach. Snorkelling and diving trips can be booked from travel agencies and diving shops in central Ao Nang. Same for kayaking trips or jungle tours. The Railay Peninsula Ao Nang beach is not the only lovely strip of sand along the coast and near Ao Nang Village: Railay, Ton Sai and Phra Nang are even more beautiful than Ao Nang. However, there are no roads to reach these three destinations and the only way to visit them is by boat. The closest to Ao Nang is Ton Sai, then there is Railay, and the last one is Phra Nang. These three sisters are the top areas for rock climbing in Krabi, with several climbing schools operating all year 'round. If you’ve never climbed before, you might want to take lessons, and there is a variety of half day, full day or multi day courses available. Even children can learn the basic techniques, and there are cliffs for every levels, from beginner to advance. One popular option is Deep Water Solo: after practicing rock climbing, enjoy jumping into the emerald waters from different cliffs. The limestone cliffs of Krabi are amazing to see from a distance, imagine how stunning they are up close! Once you are in Railay, and even if rock climbing is not your thing, there is so much to see and do: hiking paths and jungle trails, swimming, snorkelling, kayaking options, and several bars and restaurants for chill out from morning until late at night. To avoid the crowds, go in the early morning or late afternoon, or, even better, book a hostel or hotel in Railay and spend the night there. Phra Nang beach is located on the southern Railay peninsula, and you can walk there through an easy and beautiful path from Railay East. The sea is turquoise and shallow, the sand is soft and white, and the cliffs provide some shade during the day: it’s a kids paradise. One attraction you shouldn’t miss is the Princess Cave where locals worship the goddess of fertility by bringing flowers, offers and…. phallic wooden objects which make this place really unique. Sunsets are mesmerising in Railay West and Phra Nang beach, and you can enjoy the show each evening with a cold beer and a Thai snack. It’s Thailand at its best! Krabi Town & the Night Market A 20 minute drive from Ao Nang lies Krabi Town, the provincial capital. It’s a laid-back little city that offers cultural experiences and close encounters with Thai people. Art lovers should visit the Krabi Contemporary Art Museum for exhibits of local and foreign artists. In Krabi Town you will also find many restaurants, shops and cafes, and a river promenade with a scenic view of Khao Khanab Nam, two limestone mountains that are the landmark of Krabi. By joining a boat tour nearby the Khao Khanab Nam, you will see some interesting caves with prehistoric remains, the mangrove forest and the Muslim fishermen community that lives in Koh Klang, on the opposite side of the river, in front of Krabi. Krabi Night Market Night markets are ubiquitous in Thailand, in small villages and big cities, and Krabi is not different. Thais love to buy food and goods at the market, and they love shopping even more at evening, when the heat of the day is replaced by a gentle breeze and a dropping in the temperature. Night markets are always busy and lively, colourful and cheap. If you’re looking for authentic Thai street food and souvenirs in Krabi Town, the Krabi Night Market is a must-visit. The night market, which is also known as Walking Street, is open at weekends from 6 PM until 10 PM. It’s just behind the Vogue Shopping Center where you can buy designer and international clothing brands (don’t expect an Icon Siam though, or you’ll be disappointed! This is just an average department store). The variety of items you will find at the Night Market is large: from local artefacts and clothing to leather handbags, street food and gardening tools. Visitors love coming to the market to enjoy live music and performances, too. The best time to visit the market is around sunset: grab some local street food snacks, chat with the friendly vendors, enjoy the live music and street art performances before going for a beer in one of the bars downtown. The Emerald Pool & Klong Thom Hot Springs From Krabi you can visit the Emerald Pool and the Klong Thom Hot Springs. The Emerald Pool consists of several natural pools of fresh water located in the jungle. Only the biggest pool, whose name refers to the turquoise color of the water, is suitable for swimming, while the Blue Pool is great for photos, but you are not allowed to dive in. The Klong Thom Hot Springs are thermal underground springs with a temperature around 35-42 degrees Celsius. To refresh when it gets too hot, you can jump in the river below. Some locals believe that the springs contain minerals which are healthy and can heal some disease, but even if there’s no proof of that, Klong Thom is perfect to relax and enjoy the beautiful scenery. Avoid going there at weekends and National Holidays, because the place is very popular with locals and you will likely meet lots of people. Explore the temples: Wat Tham Seua and Wat Kaew Korawaram Besides the beach life, Thailand is famous for the thousands of temples that cover the country. Not far from Krabi Town, Wat Tham Sua (the Tiger Cave Temple) is the most popular among visitors, and for a good reason: it consists of different buildings built into and around a cave in a limestone cliff. It takes its name from a wild tiger that used to live in the area when the first monks came to build the temple. The most spectacular part of the complex is atop the cliff, but the hike to the very top of the mountain requires good legs and lungs, and some courage, since it takes 1260 steps on very steep staircases to conquer the peak. From there, there’s an impressive 360 degree panoramic view above Krabi Province: on clear days, you can see as far as Lanta Island. The Tiger Cave Temple is one of the most popular attractions in the province, so plan your visit early in the morning (as early as sunrise) or in the late afternoon to avoid tourist groups. Don’t forget to cover your shoulders and legs, since this is a religious site, and be aware of the monkeys who are great thieves of cell phones, hats and food! Wat Kaew Korawaram In downtown Krabi, there’s another Buddhist temple that you shouldn’t miss, the Wat Kaew Korawaram, also called the “White Temple” because of the white exterior walls. The large, white staircase leading to the temple can't be missed if you are walking or driving in downtown Krabi: you'll have to climb it to reach the main building which is perched on a small hill, but don't worry, it's nothing compared to the Tiger Cave Temple long staircase! Once inside, check out the wall drawings showing important episodes of the Buddha’s life. Despite being an important temple in Krabi, and housing a monastery, the Wat Kaew is not as popular as the Wat Tham Suea, and you should be able to explore it without massive crowds. All nature: explore Ao Thalane and the islands The fishing village of Ao Thalane is not as touristy as other places in and around Krabi Town, and it’s a great idea for a day trip. Once in Ao Thalane, rent a kayak to explore the mangrove forest and canyons and observe the lush jungle and the creatures who inhabit it. Locals are pretty serious about protecting the environment of Ao Thalane, and knowledgeable about the mangrove eco-system, so you will learn a lot about it during a kayak trip. A few villas and beach resorts can be found in Ao Thalane, but if you don’t want to sleep there, this is an easy day trip from Krabi and Ao Nang. Visit the islands There are 52 islands off the coast of Krabi Province, and plenty of amazing tour opportunities for island hopping, many of them starting from Krabi Town or Ao Nang. The closest islands are ideal for half day tours by long tail boats, while others require a full day tour by speed boat, or a multi-day package. One of the biggest and most beautiful islands where you should overnight is Koh Lanta Yai, a heaven for beach life, snorkelling and diving. It’s a laid back, relaxing place to spend a week, ideal for families with your children, yoga lovers, digital nomads and anyone who don’t miss the night life. You’ll see some fantastic sunsets from Koh Lanta’s west coast beaches. Moreover, Lanta is easy to navigate: most of the roads are paved and scooters are affordable. For a day trip from Ao Nang and Krabi, one of the most impressive islands is Koh Hong, boasting a long white sandy beach, a lagoon and, since recently, a phenomenal view point that can be reached in about 20 minutes, climbing an easy staircase. Most join and private tours include a picnic lunch on the beach, anyway there is a simple restaurant where you can buy some fried rice, chips and ice-cream. It’s forbidden to sleep in Koh Hong, and the island closes at 5 pm. The boat trips to Koh Hong usually stop in two more islands: Lao Ladin (Paradise Island) and Pakbia. The 4 island day trip is another tour that can be easily arranged from Ao Nang, Krabi Town and nearby locations. Hop on a long tail or speed boat and spend your day basking in the sun, swimming, snorkelling or kayaking in the Andaman sea. Poda, Chicken, Tup and Mor islands are very close to each other: at low tide you can even walk on the sandbar connecting the tiny Tup island to Mor, feeling like Moses. Poda Island is the one with the longest and whitest beach, it’s usually very crowded but if you walk to the southern part of the beach you might find a tranquil corner. It takes only 20 minutes by boat from Ao Nang to Poda and Chicken, and they are both stunning. Hike the highest peaks Krabi Province houses several National Parks, one of them is the Khao Phanom Bencha Park that takes its name from Khao Phanom Bencha, the highest mountain in the province. If you are fit and healthy, you can climb it, but you should hire a guide and plan to overnight, since it takes about 7 hrs to reach the top, and the sun sets early in Thailand. Another lovely (but challenging) hiking trail is the Dragon Crest (Khao Ngon Nak) which starts nearby Tubkaak Beach, a 15 minute drive from Ao Nang, and takes about 2 hours per way. Start very early in the morning if you want to ascend slowly and enjoy some time at the top, taking in one of the most epic views in all of Thailand, because the National Park closest at 3 pm: after this time you won't be allowed to enter and climb. What about my favorite activities as a resident?
As somebody who lives in Krabi all year long, I don’t visit the most touristic islands often, since I have been there many times in the past. Mostly, I like to spend my free time eating brunch at a beach or panoramic café, enjoying a day at the spa, hopping on a public boat to Railay or taking long walks in Klong Muang or Tubkaak beach. One thing I never get tired of is watching the phenomenal sunsets that happen so often in Krabi. If you come to this part of Thailand, drop me a line and I’ll whisper some of my favorite secret places, so that you won’t miss out on all the natural beauties that Krabi has to offer. Please, leave a comment, share or like the post, if you enjoyed reading it! |
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